Floritz review: A glitzy but perplexing new restaurant with an overwhelming menu

I could only assume that lunch on Father’s Day had gone down so well that they had decided to keep it on for dinner at Floritz, a newly opened restaurant in the Townhouse Hotel on St Stephen’s Green, Dublin. But with no prior notice given to the diners, I could sense some confusion. I discover afterwards that the restaurant runs a more limited dinner menu on Sundays.

I don’t know whether to be disappointed or relieved that a browse through the stream of consciousness menu to “curate” my dining experience is not required. Sections include crudo, kitori grill, chef’s special, wagyu and tempura, followed by sushi, bowls, soup and bao. It’s enough to put your head in a spin. Which is already quite stimulated by the vibrant room with mirrors, splashy wallpaper and greenery that ranges from tropical plants to plastic imitations that tumble down from the high gilded shelves. It’s got a cocktail, night-clubby vibe.

The set lunch menu does offer value, with a choice of one dish from each of four sections for €30 – yakitori, bowls and soup, tempura and baos – although the options are more limited than the main menu. We set about ordering in this format and adding a few dishes that are not included. I’ll include the prices of the individual dishes to give an idea of the value.

The drinks list is extensive with cocktails and plenty of wines by the glass. We opt for a bottle of Laurenz V. Singing Grüner Veltliner (€42).

Dishes come as they are ready, so be sure to stagger your order. From the yakitori section, five cubes of chicken in a teriyaki caramel topped with sesame seeds (€7) come with a chunky peanut sauce. I’ve asked to have the truffle omitted, as at this price I presume it would be truffle oil, not actual truffle.

The sea bass (€12) from the same section was notably good. Even though it is a farmed fish, which I prefer not to see on menus, it was beautifully cooked on the hibachi grill, with a crisp skin and served with a dipping sauce of buttermilk dashi.

From the tempura section, the corn fritters (€10) are fluffy and nicely crispy outside, almost like hush puppies in the American south, served with a punchy coriander and jalapeño dip. The rice chips (€6.50), our second option from the tempura section, are like a sushi rice take on arancini.

The roasted mushroom salad (€15) from the bowls and soup section was substantial, with a mix of pickled mushrooms, fried lotus root and mizuna in a wasabi dressing. The miso, leek and potato soup (€7), topped with leek chiffonade and wakame is very much a traditional leek and potato soup with a bit of a Japanese influence. It tasted good at first, but somehow slumped into monotony after a few spoonfuls.

Of the baos, the lamb confit with salad (€18) was the better option, with crispy bits of lamb, shallot and spring onion piled into two baos. The mushroom baos (€16), which were a little underwhelming, were filled with a mixture of hen of the woods mushrooms in whey with pickled shimeji and puffed wild rice.

As there were no sushi or sashimi options on the €30 menu, we ordered the yellowtail tataki (€18). It was probably freshly cut but it tasted dull, as if it had been sitting there a while.

Desserts are €12 and we tried two options. The cherry blossom baba came with a very mild black sesame ice cream, so mild the sesame was barely discernible, and the matcha parfait was served with yoghurt and berry sorbet.

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Floritz is not what I expected. I am still trying to work out why someone would turn one of the city’s most beautiful Georgian diningrooms (which had once been home to Richard Corrigan’s Bentley’s and then Cliff Townhouse) into a glitzy hotel diningroom. I get that the concept is novel, offering something different on the dining scene, perhaps targeted at the Ivy crowd. But I am perplexed as to why it has found itself in what was once one of Dublin’s top rooms.

The full menu is overwhelming but there is no doubt that the shorter lunch menu offers value. I have a feeling that there may be a bit of a cull and an edit on the way. It’s early days yet. In the meantime, be sure to study up before you visit.

Dinner for two with a bottle of wine was €144.

The verdict: A mesmerising array of Asian inspired dishes.

Food provenance: Dillons, Kish Fish, Kingsbury Farm, Silverhill, and Caterway.

Vegetarian options: Plentiful, including leek and miso soup, mushroom bao, sweetcorn fritters, and mushroom salad.

Wheelchair access: No accessible room or toilet.

Music: Electronic and house music, including Rodrigo Gallardo, Bedouin and Coeus.