BT Create shines a spotlight on Ireland’s up and coming designers

Celebrating some of the most exciting names in Irish design, CREATE is annual showcase of emerging talent from the fashion world, ranging from ready-to-wear and shoes, to millinery and jewellery.

Now in its 14th year, the exhibition has launched on the third floor of Dublin’s Brown Thomas, with 26 designers on display and a special spotlight being shone on the next generation of Irish designers, including the much-anticipated 2024 NACAD x Brown Thomas ‘Designer to Watch’ Dennis Lawless.

While attending the launch, we spoke with celebrity stylist Irene O’Brien to get her thoughts on the event.

“You just burst with pride when you walk in somewhere like this,” she beams.

“You just think, my goodness, all of the different – completely different from each other – styles and designs. There’s so much innovation, but the quality… I love the fact that we can bring in all these bold colours with our more heritage pieces, and just that clashing of designs that is done so well and so beautifully.”

As a stylist who has worked with a number of high-profile names in Ireland, O’Brien says that summer is the perfect time to get inspired for upcoming projects.

“September is when we all start thinking about what shoots we want to do, or different ways we want to dress, or projects we might have coming up, so for this to be here in July, I just feel so inspired,” she explains. “I go home kind of giddy and I want to get stuck into some mood boards.”

Insisting that she couldn’t possibly pick just one favourite designer, O’Brien instead says that a number of the accessories on show could be the perfect way to introduce a new element to your personal style:

“As a stylist, you’re always looking for those pieces that can elevate an outfit.”

One designer who certainly doesn’t shy from colour is Faye Anna Rochford of FéRí, who brings her free-spirited creations to life, blending whimsy with sophistication in pieces crafted from natural and regenerated fabrics.

“My collection is really colourful,” she smiles. “Last year, I probably toned down the colours because it was vey much autumn-inspired, so this year I’ve really followed my heart and the true DNA of FéRí, which is really vibrant, really colourful and definitely all about print.”

Imperfect by design, Rochford says her pieces originate as paintings and drawings, with “slightly mythical” flowers and abstract features. The hand-drawn element gives the collection a unique look, with each one “made from the heart”.

When it comes to wedding season, these floral designs could be the perfect find, but Rochford insists that they should be dressed up and down year round.

“I definitely want them to be worn; they are to be worn and loved as opposed to put in the wardrobe for just those special occasions. I think just buy pieces you love because you will wear them again. If you really love something, it is going to be worth the investment.”

Following a hugely successful collection in 2022 and 2023, Kindred of Ireland returns to CREATE with a collection of luxury designs focused on heritage and heart.

“Kindred is all about celebrating Irish heritage, so we use only locally sourced linens and Donegal tweed, so everything has that feel of craftmanship and heritage. It’s a nod to the past, but it also feels like something new and relevant.”

The brand, which has previously featured in British Vogue, started in 2020 when designer Amy Anderson was furloughed from her job in the restaurant industry during the pandemic.

Starting out with a range of colourful scrunchies in lockdown, the brand has come on in leaps and bounds. Reflecting on the past four years, the designer says initiatives like CREATE have been essential to her success and for networking with others in the industry.

“That’s the real beauty of something like this, where you get to meet people of the same mind. It’s brilliant, I love it.”

CREATE 2024

This year’s showcase shone a spotlight on the next generation of young Irish designers, with 2024 NCAD by Brown Thomas ‘Designer to Watch’ Dennis Lawless who will showcase his winning collection In the Closet, which explores the joys and challenges of self-discovery, blending childhood memories with playful narratives to create garments that defy traditional gender norms and encourage personal expression.

Moate Community School’s talent was also on display with ‘ALPACALYPSE’ by student’s Emma Kinahan, Lucy Champ and Emma Keane. “Alpacalypse,” is a dress made from alpaca wool and leather, locally sourced and crafted, to emphasise community and sustainable fashion practices.

Ready-to-wear

The ready-to-wear designers include Jennifer Slattery, Re-pete Project designer Katie Walsh, Caroline Duffy, Urban Aran’s Christine Murphy, Ejay Griffin, Faye Anna Rochford of FéRí, artist Sara O’Neill’s Éadach, Olwen Bourke, Charlotte Temple’s Magee 1866, Emerald & Wax by Virtue Shine, Rashhiiid by Rachel Maguire, Kindred of Ireland by Amy Anderson, and circular fashion champion Laoise Carey Studio.

Accessories

This section featured Silvana Landa McAdam’s LANDA, and Tara and Jonathan Jordan’s Aleo, while the millinery section welcomed couture milliner Ailish McElroy, Freya Oatway’s FAO Millinery, Aoife Harrison Milliner, and Michelle Kearns.

In jewellery, there are pieces from Sara Ross’s FiorSó Jewellery, SIADBH’s Empowered Collection, Capulet & Montague by Lisa McCormack, and Shock of Grey by Sarah Carroll Kelly.

As for shoes, this year’s CREATE will host an expanded footwear collection from designer Nicki Hoyne.