Exhilarating destinations and eclectic treasures: The insider’s guide to West Cork

Perhaps, it’s the first spot of a mountain sheep, a bolt of fuchsia pink along the hedgerow, the sight of Paul Mescal at the Fastnet Film Festival…there’s just something truly unique, bracing, and colourful and the West Cork tourism experience.

“I guess I love West Cork for the gorgeous scenery, its endless beaches and its trove of amazing food and restaurants. There’s always somewhere new to explore” Orla Ryan, who manages the hugely handy @westcorkatyourfingertips Instagram account, tells me. 

“It could be a hike up the fields to Three Castle Head for the most spectacular scenery, a Rock the Boat disco on Cape Clear Ferries, a heritage-inspired e-bike trip with Gormú eco adventures or enjoying live music at the likes of Connolly’s of Leap. There’s nowhere really quite like it as a destination. It’s the region that keeps on giving!”

To herald the summer ahead, this feature offers a bucket (and spade) list of some of West Cork’s most intriguing and exhilarating destinations as well as some eclectic treasures and a tasty stack of food recommendations, many of which have flooded in to us thanks to our readers recommendations online. 

The highlights

West Cork has been a trending destination for generations and perhaps its OG attraction is Bantry House. The mesmerising Queen Anne mansion embellished with dreamy Italian Garden’s is one of the country’s finest estates and has wooing visitors since it opened to the public in 1946. They’ve lovely tearooms too. (bantryhouse.com; €14/€5)

Continuing to the Beara Peninsula and no West Cork road-trip is complete without a spin up the Healy Pass, the spectacular mountain route which serpentines from the coast at Adrigole, deep into the Caha Mountains. For another hit of exhilaration, wind down to the tip of Beara where the Dursey Island Cable Car (durseyisland.ie; €10/€5 return), Europe’s only open-sea cable car, will transports passengers for an iconic ride to the country’s most southwesterly island.

At Ireland’s southernmost peninsula, Mizen Head (mizenhead.ie; €7.50/€4.50) you’ll find the visitor’s centre and café before the spectacular cliff-hugging bridge leads to the dramatic signal tower itself. To feel even more off the beaten track, Sheep’s Head, arguably Munster’s most undiscovered peninsula, features dream hiking routes; highlight being the headland’s own tucked-away lighthouse which is one of the most serene spots the country.

Don’t overlook Interior West Cork on your journey too: Gougane Barra with its 19th century oratory and its rugged forest park set deep in the valley, makes the perfect summer excursion. Further west in glorious Glengarriff, catch the Blue Pool or Harbour Queen ferries (€15/€7.50) to Garnish Island (garinishisland.ie; €5/€3) where you admire the flora of this unique island microclimate. Keep an eye out for seals on your journey too.

Wildlife lovers can also hop aboard for a whale watching tour with operators like Atlantic Whale & Wildlife Tours (atlanticwhaleandwildlifetours.com; €65/€45) or for an even more far-flung boat tour, Cape Clear Ferries offer sunset tours of “Ireland’s tear drop”, spectacular Fastnet Island capeclearferries.com; €44/€12). And speaking of islands, don’t overlook an overnight stay at one of West Cork’s offshore islands, from the quirky Gaeltacht island of Oileán Chléire to artsy Sherkin.

Hidden gems

West Cork is dotted with colourful, quirky haunts. Did you know, mar shampla, that the Gaeltacht village of Cúil Aodha features its own gorgeous public swimming pool where sessions can be booked via their Facebook page, Linn Snamha Chuil Aodha. Staying with family friendly, Rosscarbery features its own inflatable water park in the heart of the village’s sheltered waters (lagoonactivitycentre.ie; €18)

For a little more Zen, Dzogchen Beara (dzogchenbeara.org) is a Buddhist Retreat Centre outside Castletownbere which offers meditation sessions in their clifftop shrine and makes a truly otherworldly experience, no small thanks to its unspoiled, remote location.

To kick back with a summer G&T, could there be a more quintessential West Cork pursuit than enjoying a drink at Levi’s Corner House? The landmark pastel pink pub in the heart of Ballydehob regularly hosts musical and spoken word events and delicious food trucks too. (leviscornerhouse.com). You can expect characterful businesses to line the streets of West Cork’s towns and villages. In Bantry, be sure to check out Evan’s shop, a century-old traditional store where you can load up up on nostalgia-loaded penny sweets, the perfect road-trip snacks!

To get active, kayaking at Lough Hyne (atlanticseakayaking.com; €75) has become one of the county’s ultimate bucket-list experiences due to the displays of bioluminescence in the lake’s waters as plankton glimmers under a clear sky. The coast is also increasingly pepper with coastal sauna experiences like West Cork Sauna (@westcorksauna) who operate their sweaty sanctuary for sea-swimmers out of Red Strand, Schull and Courtmacsherry.

Looking for a flavour or everything? Two Green Shoots (twogreenshoots.com) are a sustainability-focussed collective who offer retreats in the peninsula including a Forage, Feast & Paddle weekend as well as A Taste of Beara experience where you can tuck into a hamper or delicious produce at your base of Wild Atlantic Glamping on Bere Island.

Don’t overlook the region’s eclectic events calendar, either. From the West Cork Literary Festival in Bantry this July to the Cape Clear Island International Storytelling Festival in September.

Eating out

You’re never too far from a knock-out meal in West Cork, from fresh-off-the-trawler seafood to farm-to-fork vegan dishes. For a feast on Mizen, Sullivan’s aka Sully’s (@osullivanscrook) in Crookhaven is an acclaimed bar known for its excellent chowder and open crab sandwiches while on Sheep’s Head, Arundels by the Pier (@arundelsbythepier) in Ahakista, offer a gorgeous beer garden and a sublime menu — their nduja mussels are a house favourite.

Ballydehob packs a serious punch for a small village when it comes to dining too. Get your bookings in for Michelin-star Chestnut (@thechestnutwestcork) where you can indulge in its signature tasting menu downstairs or enjoy more informal small plates upstairs. Down the street, Budds (@buddswestcork) a neighbourhood favourite for its delicious seasonal brunches!

In bougie Baltimore, two Michelin star restaurant Dede (@dede_at_the_customs_house) in Baltimore is the ultimate indulgence with its phenomenal tasting menus created with the best of Turkish and local produce. 

Heading to Skibb? Pull up a pew at The Church (church_restaurant), a gorgeous setting in the heart of the town with excellent food, plus they’ve a great wok menu for take-out too.

In Timoleague, spare some room for Monk’s Lane (@monks_lane) in Timoleague, a fantastic food wine destination run by couple Michelle O’Mahony and Gavin Moore (book ahead online). 

We can’t talk about West Cork’s food scene without mentioning Kinsale which itself offers an article’s worth of highlights from St. Francis Provision restaurant and wine bar (@stfranciskinsale) to the mouth-watering Black Pig (@theblackpigwinebar). 

Finally, T
oons Bridge Dairy (@toonsbridge) in Inchigeela, famed for their buffalo mozzarella, also have their own pizzeria on the weekends where you can dine-in their very own polytunnel!

Great coffee (and cake!) spots

West Cork is home to a growing crop of excellent coffee trucks, roasters and cafés and Clonakilty is always a great place to start. For delicious vegan snacks and fresh brews, head to plant-based Wazzy Woo (@wazzywoo) where fresh berry smoothies and flavoured espressos keep the regulars coming.

On the peninsulas, Beara Barista is one of the original establishments in West Cork’s truck movement where it serves up fresh organic coffee (and signature hot dogs!) in postcard. Rosscarbery always makes a handy pitstop along the Wild Atlantic Way and Drip Coffee in the village is a popular spot for cold brews and pastries — they also operate a coffee truck out of Warren Beach at weekends.

Further west, Organico Deli in Bantry is a great spot to load up on coffee, freshly baked baked breads while in Ballylickey, find a reason to pull up at Manning’s Emporium where its delicious artisanal produce and cheeseboards make the perfect ingredients for an impromptu picnic.

One location than often get overlooked by non-locals are garden centres (plus they’ve great parking too). The Coffee Bee at Future Forests in Gougane Barra is a great option in the area for some hiking treats while at Skibbereen Garden Centre, The Brew box stock Stone Valley Coffee Roasters (who also a coffee shop in Clon…it’s a small world, even in West Cork).

Delightful digs

West Cork offers a broad variety of accommodation for all budgets. Some of my favourite tried and tested options include Seaview B&B in Allihies where the O’Sullivan family offer fantastic hospitality in arguably Ireland’s pretties village. 

Elsewhere on the peninsula, Mossie’s B&B is a gorgeous sanctuary with a luxury boutique feel.

For a quirky self-catering option, The Old Tailor Shop in Skibbereen is a new Airbnb rental set in a traditional shop in Skibbereen while for a luxury country house escape, Liss Ard House, just outside Skibb is one of my favourite Ireland’s Blue Book options plus its Sky Garden is a truly unique attraction. 

Clonakilty is home to some excellent options too; Fernhill House is a great family-run option with great value menus while for sea views, Inchydoney Lodge & Spa offers some of the best in the county while across the bay, Dunmore House makes an intimate escape for food lovers.

Readers recommend

Island Cottage on Heir Island (islandcottage.com) by John Desmond and Elmary Fenton was a family tradition every summer. We always met in Ballydehob at Rosie’s or Levi’s or sometimes Christina’s too for some chatting and then always to Minnihans prior to hopping on the boat to Heir Island. John is the best chef and his food is truly local and created with such intense care. They continue to do summer lunches and for anyone who hasn’t experienced Island Cottage, I can truly says it’s magical, a unique venture by boat then walking up a beautiful country lane to the restaurant. A must experience in West Cork.  

– Christina Foley, Inish Living

Budds in Ballydehob for cake and coffee, Arundels of Ahakista for pints and chips, O’Sullivans in Crookhaven for pints, Audley Cove for a swim, the Fish Basket at Long Strand, Mannings in Ballylickey for food and great wine selection. 

– Rory English, Lotts & Co

Monks Lane (always amazing), Dunmorehouse and Dunowenhouse (can’t wait to stay in the cottage); Wildflour Inishannon (cinnamon bun 😍); Camus Field Kitchen (divine farm-to-fork dining). Walk from The Warren to Owenahincha. Drive along by Long Strand and The Fish Basket. 

– Eithe Hunt

Budds in Ballydehob – their hot sauce is to die for. Worth going alone for that!  Cafe in The Mizen Head is fantastic. Run by a cooperative – great chowder and homemade cakes Stop for a coffee at Joe Doughs at Barleycove Caravan Park on the way to the beach.

– Elma O’Reilly

Dromgarriff Rain Forest for exceptional self catering accomodation in Glengarriff. Ballydehob, just in general becuase it’s so cool. Dede in Baltimore, possibly the best restaurant in the country. There’s a great new Pizza place in Durrus.

– Eamonn Barrett

5 of the Best Beaches

Long Strand brings a touch of Northern California to West Cork. Pair your visit a seafood feast at The Fish Basket. 

Ballydonegan may be the best beaches in Allihies, but locals will point you straight to Trá an Phéarla, a lesser known secluded cove just north of the village.

Across the Beara peninsula, Zetland Pier, tucked off the main road between Glengarriff and Castletown is a stunning rocky inlet which makes for summer dipping heaven.

From pearls to silver, Silver Strand is just one of the best options on Sherkin Island — you’ll find gorgeous hidden beaches on Long Island and Heir Island too.

Torn between a swim and a hike? Pooleen in Glengarriff Nature Reserve is a gorgeous rainforest ramble where you can also cool off in the river’s sheltered pool.

10 Great Pubs

Here are our follower’s tips for some of the best spots.

1 The Lobster Pot, Goleen

2 The Jolly Roger, Sherkin Island

3 The Urhan Inn, Eyeries

4 The Lifeboat Inn, Courtmacsherry

5 Eileen’s Bar, Kilcrohane

6 De Barra’s, Clonakilty

7 The Lighthouse, Allihies

8 The Tin Pub, Ahakista

9 The Algiers Inn, Baltimore

10 Hayes’, Glandore

For more on the region, see purecork.ie