Harbour Kitchen review: This is a cracking coastal restaurant

The best restaurant in the world for 2024 was announced two weeks ago. I mention it because I’m frequently asked about the best restaurant I’ve ever been to, and it so happens that I’ve been to this one, which comes close to the top of my list. It’s called Disfrutar and the chefs behind it are the three legendary head chefs from Ferran Adria’s long-shuttered el Bulli, which was awarded the world’s best restaurant title five times. It is of course, completely booked out for the next 12 months, but there’s a waiting list, so it’s worth a shot if you’re heading to Barcelona.

Best restaurants, favourite restaurants, whatever way you want to categorise them, sometimes the more apt question is, what do you feel like eating? And in the summer, for me, the answer is generally fish. The bad news is, if you want some of Ireland’s best fish, you’ll need to go to Barcelona for that too – Cal Pep, Estimar, Botafumiero. Much of our premium fish lands on the plates there within 24 hours. Is one large overseas customer better than a fragmented bunch of domestic ones? When “industry” and high-volume exports take priority over food security, unfortunately, the answer is “yes”. But imagine the alternative? We could be a country with fish shacks and lobster wharfs scattered around our coast. That’s an industry worth supporting.

The Harbour Kitchen, which opened in Greystones in November last year, is doing its bit to set things right. Located over the Beach House pub, a significant refurb means it is now a beautiful space with stone walls and timber beams. There’s a bar if you fancy a drink before dinner, and two dining rooms. We’re at a sizeable table for two people in the larger room, which is full of families, friend groups and couples.

There’s a good team on board with Sheerin Wilde (formerly of Avalon in Donnybrook) managing the restaurant and Jaco Pretorious, who was head chef in La Maison for many years, heading up the kitchen. It’s a fish-led menu with a vegetarian, chicken and steak option to ensure there’s broad appeal. Starters come in under €15.50 and the mains range from €19.50 for the moules marinière with fries to €42 for the 16oz Irish Angus T-Bone.

There is an impressive number of wines by the glass on the fairly mainstream wine list, although I understand there are a few interesting additions on the way. There’s not much of interest below €40 (the norm these days), although I’m sure many will appreciate that there is both a red and a white at €30. We opt for a Steininger Gruner Veltliner (€45). Top tip – if you’re unsure what to order on a wine list, Austrian wine is always a good bet.

[ Grá Pizza takeaway review: Stunning sourdough pizza served from a converted horsebox ]

Scallops with seaweed butter (€14) are a tasty way to start. Five queen scallops are beautifully seasoned and lightly seared, garnished with pea shoots and wild garlic. The seaweed and crispy capers in the brown butter add a nice punch of flavour.

The crab (€14), comes as a long slender cylinder, dressed with a light amount of wasabi buttermilk mayo with chopped chervil tossed through. The anise note is echoed, maybe a bit too strongly, by the fennel in the salad, but I find that eating the crab and following with the salad to cleanse the palate works nicely.

For main course, the halibut (€38) is served with a beurre blanc, smashed butterbeans and crispy nettles. It’s a complete dish, and no one tried to upsell sides to us. Our other fish dish, cod with chargrilled baby gem, pancetta, asparagus spears and pea velouté is very reasonably priced at €26. It’s a solid bistro dish that eats well, but could perhaps be made just a little lighter to reflect the summer season – a lighter velouté perhaps with crème fraiche and mint.

For dessert, the poached pears (€10) have been poached right through, the red wine infused with cloves, sprinkled with pistachios and honeycomb and served with a blackberry sorbet. The crème brulee (€10) is textbook perfect, deliciously creamy under the brittle shield of amber caramel.

The Harbour Kitchen is a cracking restaurant. The menu reflects its coastal location and clearly the pricing strategy has been given a bit of thought. You could be in and out of here for a very reasonable amount or opt for something a bit more special. If you’re heading to Greystones, this is the restaurant to book.

Dinner for two with a bottle of wine was €158.50.

The Verdict:A restaurant that reflects all that is good in its coastal location

Music: Portishead and Bonobo in the background.

Food provenance: Glenmar Fish, Wrights of Marino, La Rousse and Andarl Farm.

Vegetarian options: One starter and one main eg gazpacho and barbeque courgette pilaf, can be adapted for vegans.

Wheelchair access: No accessible room or toilet.

[ September, Blackrock, review: We need more walk-in restaurants in scenic spots like this – absolutely delightful ]