Paul Costelloe opens London Fashion Week with collection inspired by Thomond Park and New York memories

His new ‘Once upon a Time’ themed collection is where Limerick meets downtown New York.

Such a pity then that, after distilling a very personal storyline, right down to a print based on the street where he once lived in Manhattan, that Paul wasn’t at his London Fashion Week show today, after he was felled by a virus.

Guests arrived at the 9am show, the first on schedule as London Fashion Week celebrates its 40th birthday to find a note from the designer.

“Regretfully, I cannot be here today at the launch of my Autumn Collection due to a virus. But, as they say, the show must go on, and my London based couture team will take a bow in my place. Happy Birthday to London Fashion Week. See you all in September for my Spring/Summer 2025 launch.”

His artist son William who designs all of the bespoke prints, Jordi Vall i Saborit, Paul’s head of design and three of the ‘petits mains’ who work on the collection, all donned their white coats and came out to take a bow at the end of the fast paced show.

Costelloe has been showing at London Fashion Week since 1986 and the clamour for seats at the packed show today was testimony to the Irish designer’s enduring appeal with a reputation from the 1980’s for dressing Princess Diana for her royal duties right up to this decade and dressing Vogue Williams for her wedding day.

Never one to hold back, Paul may not have been there in person today but in his show notes, he made his point about value of craftmanship and wrote, “this collection expresses my view that classic design has it place in high fashion”.

The show opened with strong winter whites with dramatic brown leather accessories and there was personal nostalgia with a print by William Costelloe of Paul’s favourite hangouts, the Brooklyn bridge and iconic spots like McSorley’s Ale House. This signature print popped up throughout the show in separates including wide-legged pleated palazzos Paul dubbed ‘New York legs’.

His palette included chic charcoal greys and rich brown Donegal tweeds trimmed in leather. A giant tweed jacket with oversized hood trimmed in leather, ideal for a cold day on the terraces at Thomond Park.

Paul is very proud of his Limerick and New York roots. His father, William, came from Limerick while his mother, Catherine Easter, was American.

The show opened to the upbeat track of George Benson’s ‘On Broadway’ and from urban sophisticate he delved into his fondness for country chic vibes which he developed in his Dressage range at the beginning of his career.

Tweed coats with beautiful leather trim popping up as pockets under the lapel. Cosy cable knit grey sweater with oversized neck worn with short leather skirt and short trapeze coat with pilgrim collar in leather worn with a huge leather shopper bag with giant bow.

The arrival of leather jodhpurs saw the frow of celebrities lean forward for a better look. This season Paul played with proportions and textures. A dark charcoal Aran jumper worn with fishtail long skirt. Mermaid and while there were lots of cool mini dresses, he closed with dramatic evening wear and the message, “Thank you, London”.