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Restaurant review: The food at the revamped Park Kenmare is as exquisite as the Sean Scully paintings on the walls – it’s just a shame we can’t see them

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Restaurant review: The food at the revamped Park Kenmare is as exquisite as the Sean Scully paintings on the walls – it’s just a shame we can’t see them

Our food critic checks out the new a la carte menu at the hotel formerly owned by the Brennan brothers

Landline at the Park Hotel Kenmare. Photo: Nathan Rollinson

The opportunity to eat in a room filled with paintings by Ireland’s greatest abstract artist is irresistible. So even if Landline, the newly named restaurant occupying the Sean Scully room in the Park Hotel Kenmare, was serving a menu of Cajun chicken paninis, raw green peppers and tripe, I’d have been beating down its doors for a table.

Thankfully, chef James O’Sullivan’s food is much, much more to my liking so there’s no culinary hardship involved.

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