Bussiness
Restaurant review: There is a new buzz in the dining room and the classic food falls into my ‘Perfect for Paddy’ category
Our critic enjoys a special occasion lunch at this popular Dublin spot – but finds the wine list pricey
One Pico, Molesworth Place, Dublin 2. Photo: Barry Murphy
I have mentioned my friend Paddy before. When it comes to food and restaurants, he’s a man who doesn’t have much truck with gimmicks. He wouldn’t be a fan of sharing plates and the very notion of foraging brings him out in hives. I’ve never dared suggest a natural wine to him because I couldn’t bear the withering comments to which this might give rise to.
Many years ago, we brought him and another friend to celebrate an important birthday at El Bulli, Ferran Adrià’s legendary temple to molecular gastronomy in Roses, Spain, and I don’t think I’ve ever laughed more in my life. Needless to say, Paddy wasn’t that impressed with the food. (One of Adrià’s signature dishes involved pine. There were mutterings about Jeyes Fluid.)
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