‘The views on race day are just sensational’

They don’t do things by halves racing-wise in Co Kerry, the home of Oisin Murphy and his uncle Jim ‘Best Mate’ Cullotty.

The Killarney highlight is over five days and then, after a short respectful period of R & R, everyone assembles at the North End of the County, in Listowel, for the Harvest Festival – at seven days only rivalled by Galway.

“Easy by train” I was told – and it is. Go to Dublin Heuston, get the Inter City Cork train to Mallow and change there through the most glorious countryside to Killarney.

The quite unique thing about Killarney is the route to the races – not far from town down the Ross Road – the options are to drive, walk and, amazingly, to go by pony and trap.

Nothing ventured nothing gained so off I went, boarding my carriage outside the International Hotel.

And yes, I fell for it. “It’ll take us 15 minutes, so as you’ve time why don’t we go round the National Park first” proffered the local.

So off we went into the park, entering via the road that adjoins the mile start at the racecourse towards Muckross House and Ross Castle. Out came the blarney… “To the left”, he said as he pointed to a large bath-type object. “is the Olympic-size swimming pool for the Leprechauns” etc etc.

On we went and he pointed to what was a wishing well. “Ah”, I said, “where the Leprechauns do their bungee jumping”. We came to an immediate halt.

“Look”, my driver said, “I do the jokes around here, and you’ll be a week if we part here”.

Message received.

But sitting alongside the likes of Hexham on this side of the Irish Sea, the views on race day are just sensational. And the sun setting behind the mountains as the horses turn from out of the back straight in simply breathtaking.

So too, is the welcome – no more so than when in 2019 Frankie Dettori flew in.

They love their racing in these parts. Gone, sadly are the mixed days – three flat days mean the jumps don’t happen until Thursday – but when you see the day-one card and Ballydoyle, the O’Brien brothers, Dermot Weld, Jim Bolger, Jessie Harrington and Ger Lyons are amongst those with runners, it tells its own story.

The Killarney experience is a must for the bucket list – factor in days to recover and follow the maidens both two-legged and four. Some of this summer’s winners will show it’s worth as the season develops.

And take plenty of water with it!