Entertainment
Why everyone in London wants to drink like the Irish
When journalist Maurice Gorham wrote his 1949 hymn to the joys of the local, the Irish pub was just one part of the British capital’s drinking culture. Now it dominates it
Róisín Lanigan at The Devonshire in Soho, London. Photo: Harry Mitchell
There are rules here. There are standards. An Irish pub in London is a land unto itself — neither fully English nor fully Irish, but a self-governing mecca where there is always, for some reason, a fully Thai menu.
Irish pubs in the British capital have more that unite them than divide them, from The Faltering Fullback in Finsbury Park to Skehans in Peckham, to the apex predator of London Irish pubs: The Devonshire in Soho (where you can always nip to The Toucan round the corner if things get too busy). Dark mahogany, heaving smoking areas, greenery, good Guinness, bar staff with familiar accents who will glare at you in deathly silence if you try to deviate from the standard order. Seriously. I once tried to get a black velvet (Guinness and fizz) at The Devonshire and instead received a flat “no” from the landlord. Supposedly it degrades both the stout and the specially imported glass. Fair enough.
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